Brioni Fall – Winter 2019/20 Collection
Ease: a soft way to tailor and construct garments that suggests an effortless way to wear them. Brioni keeps evolving its sartorial know how in order to match the times whilst staying true to its roots. There is an idea of Roman nonchalance that is integral to the ethos of the House, and which is heralded through pieces that move smoothly and lightly over the body. The preciousness of the materials and the refinement of the details are evident, but not blatant. It suggests a dignified and boldly masculine idea of luxury as rather personal indulgence. The collection is about men at ease with themselves and the way they use clothing to represent who they are into the wider scene of social life.
The Brioni men are gentle, self assured and spirited. They layer and combine, instinctively following their whims. They are elegant, in a forgetful kind of way. Their wardrobe is expansive and considered, and obeys to a softening of the codes. There is a normality to it that is essentially a precision of line and craft. There is an informality to it that is the approach in the way it is used.
The tailoring caresses the body whilst keeping its defining precision. The collection introduces the Primo suit, a new slender slim-fit silhouette in a contemporary expression of the signature Brioni tailoring. Meanwhile, the offer expands to encompass items that cover every moment of a man’s life, from business attire to leisure to the weekend.
A wardrobe is a repertoire of possibilities open to individual interpretations. The collection is built as such. Shapes are defined yet supple, with indulgent details. Formal coats hide shaved beaver linings; blazers sport astrakhan details on the collar; concealed piping runs along shirts. From trench coats to blousons, from morning suits to tailored or military pants, everything is given the subtle Brioni touch. A plastron appears on an informal shirt, crocodile leather is used for the field jacket, the dinner jackets are cut in velvet in playful colors. Knitted jersey blazers are remarkably soft, while cravatteria motifs enrich shirting. Regimental bands run as an identity sign both apparent or hidden.
Materials are luxurious and tactile: cashmere, camel, wool, silk, leather. The color palette is a fused amalgamation of neutral tones, whites, greys with touches of light blue and accents of rusted notes.
An idea of masculine sophistication comes to the fore.